And why would he? In his new job as Diesel's artistic director, Formichetti is not only allowed, but encouraged, to let his signature freak flag fly.Does Nicola Formichetti ever miss Mugler? "No, I don't," he said from the back of a chauffeured car in his native Tokyo last week. And why would he? In his new job as Diesel's artistic director, Formichetti is not only allowed, but encouraged, to let his signature freak flag fly. "Before Diesel, people used to tell me to turn down the volume," he recalled. "But [Diesel CEO] Renzo [Rosso] always tells me to go crazier. No one's ever said that to me before."

Formichetti has scores of potentially crazy upcoming projects for the brand, like capsule denim and leather collections and his very first Diesel runway show, which will be held in a yet-to-be-determined city this March. But his latest efforts—a Japanese Shibari rope bondage-inspired accessories collection and a burlesque-style ad campaign staring rebel rapper Brooke Candy and model Tessa Kuragi—are easily his craziest to date. Featuring Kuragi and Candy, a former stripper, flexing round a silver pole while showing off Diesel's Spring '14 wares, the Inez & Vinoodh-lensed images and corresponding film are bound to raise some eyebrows. But on Friday night, Formichetti firmly asserted his role as fashion's primo provocateur with an X-rated launch party at Tokyo's Tabloid. Upon entering, guests were ushered through a bona fide sex shop stocked with handcuffs, pearl-studded ball gags, fringed whips, and various other erotic toys. Beyond the accessories installation, which included Diesel's leather-cage booties, harness-embellished bags, bullet-studded totes, and metallic brogues, were rooms peppered with exotic dancers in black lace lingerie. Meanwhile, in a red-lit space downstairs, nearly nude experts demonstrated the aforementioned art of Shibari to the sound of a harpsichord. Their colleagues, dressed in bottom-baring gowns, lace-up boots, or hot pants, watched on their hands and knees from locked cages.

It was a night that we won't soon be able to forget, but considering the controversial reputation that Candy has built since commencing her career two years ago, the explicit event felt apropos.
POST: 2024-11-24