Sport and street are always two rich territories for the Weiland team to mine, and they did so this season with a keen, cool focus.
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Sport and street are always two rich territories for the Weiland team to mine, and they did so this season with a keen, cool focus.
Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein pulled together a Spring mood board from Instagram—"Not that Instagram itself is an inspiration," Eckstein clarified at their studio the day before their show. "It's a reflection of how our everyday life really affects this collection." Their everyday life this year included a trip to Indonesia as part of their inclusion in the CFDA Fashion Incubator program, so there were images from that trip interspersed with pictures of their friends, Eckstein's dog Coconut, and a swatch of fabric from a Josef Frank couch Weiland fell for (but was always too afraid to sit on) as a kid.
That mixed bag of references yielded a very clean collection. Knit dresses and rayon-nylon anoraks were streamlined and sporty, and the bold palette—lots of navy, white, and red—added a graphic pop. To create visual texture, the designers mixed fabrics, solid color-blocks, and a few well produced prints. While those individual components were nice—such as the printed blue brocade and black eyelet on one dress with an asymmetric triangle cutout at the waist—the final product didn't always gel. More successful was a slinky red and black striped T-shirt dress in an open-stitch knit and, at the other end of the sexy spectrum, a pair of breezy, barely-cinched-waist shirtdresses that opened into full, free-flowing silk skirts. The few menswear looks (there were five of them) echoed the sport-prep casualness of the proceedings. The anoraks—even one in black leather—had legit street appeal. Sport and street are always two rich territories for the Weiland team to mine, and they did so this season with a keen, cool focus.