Jason Wu's love affair with the corset appears to be well and truly over.
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Jason Wu's love affair with the corset appears to be well and truly over.
Jason Wu's love affair with the corset appears to be well and truly over. Following in the footsteps of a Spring collection devoted to bias dressing, he focused on draping and "hybridized" separates for Pre-Fall, with somewhat mixed results. Spiral-cut ruffle dresses in mismatched dark autumn florals looked great with mannish shoes, while foulard-print blouses came with ribbed cuffs borrowed from athletic gear—a subtle detail that gave the pieces a sporty mien. Yes, there were a few of the body-limning sheaths he's known for, but they had more ease than usual, thanks to the way he injected drape by splicing jersey knits with silk. A clingy black number with a lustrous inset in the bodice was particularly gorgeous. Wu took a similar approach to his evening suits, cutting a tuxedo jacket like a cardigan and, on the bottom, pairing it with slouchy silk track pants.
It's hard to argue with a collection designed to feel, as Wu put it, as comfortable as "slipping on a sweater." There were several covetable cashmeres here, as well as an oversize ribbed style worn with a long beaded-tulle skirt. We're all for designers getting out of their comfort zones, but that look in particular was too close for comfort to Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy. A golden silk slipdress with a spiraling seam was Wu doing what he does best.