The best thing you could say about this Blumarine show might be that it was more grounded than usual.
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The best thing you could say about this Blumarine show might be that it was more grounded than usual.
The best thing you could say about this Blumarine show might be that it was more grounded than usual. From the opener of baby-pink biker shearling and flesh-toned leather trousers, the collection did its earnest best to evoke a real world, albeit an insistently candy-colored one. But it was a real world that was firmly lodged in the eighties. The huge rollneck with the color-coordinated cardigan, for instance, was an exaggeratedly ritzy take on the twinset. The big pink bathrobe? Well, that might be a concession to Hollywood wives. But it also suggested an ultimate comfort factor that stretched into flowing outerwear that was as cozy as a candlewick bedspread.
But the eighties also embodied another kind of exaggeration, and Molinari was right there with it. Her appetite for thigh-high pannier-draped skirts, splattered with flowers, spoke to an original Ungaro moment. So did the extreme pagoda-shouldered suits, boldly blouse-less. Quite where this sits in the contemporary fashion spectrum would be more of an enigma if Molinari hadn't been cheered to the rafters by her fiercely partisan Italian aficionados.