NewYork fashion weekTory Burch summed up her Fall collection as "English country dressing translated through American sportswear." But it was infinitely more than that. Burch took a maximalist and deconstructed approach to the various codes of her inspiration. For starters, there was her use of tweed: She patchworked it, fringed the edges, pieced it with chiffon, trimmed it in leather, and covered it in paillettes.

Needless to say, it wasn't exactly Gosford Park. Burch has always loved a cool, bohemian element and that was evident here in the louche seventies vibe of pussy bow-blouses, scarf-print silk maxi skirts, and a pair of groovy flared trouser suits—one in burgundy velvet, the other in an oversize plaid.

For the past few seasons, Burch has been ramping up her fashion quotient, and the industry has certainly taken note. But there were moments here today when you wished she would have exercised some of her former restraint and perhaps removed one or two elements from the mix. Amid the visual overload of looks like a sweater pieced from Fair Isle and stripes layered over a bow-tied blouse and a skirt in two different tartans, the chic simplicity of a silk windowpane-printed shirtdress was very welcome.

Still, the above is not a problem that Burch will have trouble solving in the showroom. When pulled apart and merchandised, these looks will yield some great clothes and accessories. More importantly, they'll be the first collection in Burch's upcoming Madison Avenue flagship, scheduled to open in late August—not to mention the nine other stores she's rolling out this year on her road to world domination.

Fashion Brand: Tory Burch | www.toryburch.com

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