NewYork fashion weekSince Tina Lutz took the reins at TSE in 2012, the cashmere label has subscribed to a clean, sculptural aesthetic rooted in art and architecture.

Sharp lines, classic silhouettes, and, of course, super-luxe fabrics have been the main focus, which is why Fall felt like a bit of a departure. "I really wanted to go back to my heritage, so everything is inspired by Germany," Lutz explained in her Soho studio.

"Right now, the younger generation is really embracing Oktoberfest and lederhosen and dirndls, which was not how it was when I was a kid. It was fun to work off of an inspiration that is completely not like TSE." The results were subtler than all that sounds.

In lieu of actual Bavarian garb, she added crocheted trim, pom-poms, and fringe to simple knits and used felted wool to create soft structure. To mimic the lace-up detailing on lederhosen, she included drawstrings at the back of a slouchy crewneck and played with wide, waist-cinching belts.

While a double-face cashmere dress had square, dirndl-inspired seams, there was also a playful cropped apron that could be layered over knits and blouses like the real thing. You could see a younger TSE customer wearing hers with a T-shirt and slim cashmere sweats for Sunday brunch.

Fashion Brand: TSE | www.tsecashmere.com

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