London fashion weekDuro Olowu's latest collection took inspiration from the Fauvist painter Kees van Dongen, and something about the artist's work really got the designer's juices flowing. This was a larger collection than Olowu usually produces, and one more varied in its textures and silhouettes than recent outings.

Alongside his signature capes and tailored mixed-print dresses, there were less familiar pieces, such as a flounced tank and full skirt of black lace and silk taffeta, a voluminous and very glam gown of pastel brocade, and formal shirtdresses in sliced organza or damask that featured dramatic draped backs. For day, meanwhile, he had a kimono jacket, split A-line skirt, and nipped-waist jacket made from grid-checked knit wool—a look that hinted at the line's emphasis on the graphic, another element that felt new.

Bold stripes and color-blocks underlined the effect. It was nice to see Olowu expanding his idiom. But what kept this collection from feeling like a total departure—beyond the inclusion of much Olowu-trademark mixed print—was its reliance on disciplined tailoring.

That's another signature and the thing that always makes his vibrant clothes look grown-up and sophisticated and not at all like a free-for-all. His fastidiousness about cut was evident, even when he worked with fuller shapes and with slack silhouettes like that of a lean, long silk shirtdress. If the Olowu clientele was getting a gentle push out on a limb here, it was also given a cushy safety net.

Fashion Brand: Duro Olowu | www.duroolowu.com

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