Paweł Lewandowski
Hedvig
Kazia Jaszkiewicz
Mc kenneth Licon
Manuella Lupascu
Spiders and silkworms are masters of materials science, but scientists are finally catching up. Silks are among the toughest materials known, stronger and less brittle, pound for pound, than steel. Now scientists at Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) have unraveled some of their deepest secrets in research that could lead the way to the creation of synthetic materials that duplicate, or even exceed, the extraordinary properties of natural silk.
Markus Buehler, the Esther and Harold E. Edgerton Associate Professor in MIT’s Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, and his team study fundamental properties of materials and how those materials fail. With silk, that meant using computer models that can simulate not just the structures of the molecules but exactly how they move and interact in relation to each other. The models helped the researchers determine the molecular and atomic mechanisms responsible for the material’s remarkable mechanical properties.
Silk’s combination of strength and ductility — its ability to bend or stretch without breaking — results from an unusual arrangement of atomic bonds that are inherently very weak, Buehler and his team found.
Silks are made from proteins, including some that form thin, planar crystals called beta-sheets. These sheets are connected to each other through hydrogen bonds — among the weakest types of chemical bonds, unlike, for example, the much stronger covalent bonds found in most organic molecules. Buehler’s team carried out a series of atomic-level computer simulations that investigated the molecular failure mechanisms in silk. “Small yet rigid crystals showed the ability to quickly re-form their broken bonds, and as a result fail ‘gracefully’ — that is, gradually rather than suddenly,” graduate student Keten explains.
“In most engineered materials” — ceramics, for instance — “high strength comes with brittleness,” Buehler says. “Once ductility is introduced, materials become weak.” But not silk, which has high strength despite being built from inherently weak building blocks. It turns out that’s because these building blocks — the tiny beta-sheet crystals, as well as filaments that join them — are arranged in a structure that resembles a tall stack of pancakes, but with the crystal structures within each pancake alternating in their orientation. This particular geometry of tiny silk nanocrystals allows hydrogen bonds to work cooperatively, reinforcing adjacent chains against external forces, which leads to the outstanding extensibility and strength of spider silk.
One surprising finding from the new work is that there is a critical dependence of the properties of silk on the exact size of these beta-sheet crystals within the fibers. When the crystal size is about three nanometers (billionths of a meter), the material has its ultra-strong and ductile characteristics. But let those crystals grow just beyond to five nanometers, and thematerial becomes weak and brittle.
Buehler says the work has implications far beyond just understanding silk. He notes that the findings could be applied to a broader class of biological materials, such as wood or plant fibers, and bio-inspired materials, such as novel fibers, yarns and fabrics or tissue replacement materials, to produce a variety of useful materials out of simple, commonplace elements. For example, he and his team are looking at the possibility of synthesizing materials that have a similar structure to silk, but using molecules that have inherently greater strength, such as carbon nanotubes.
The long-term impact of this research, Buehler says, will be the development of a new material design paradigm that enables the creation of highly functional materials out of abundant, inexpensive materials. This would be a departure from the current approach, where strong bonds, expensive constituents, and energy intensive processing (at high temperatures) are used to obtain high-performance materials.
Peter Fratzl, professor in the department of biomaterials in the Max Planck Institute of Colloids and Interfaces in Potsdam, Germany, who was not involved in this work, says that “the strength of this team is their pioneering multi-scale theoretical approach” to analyzing natural materials. He adds that this is “the first evidence from theoretical modeling of how hydrogen bonds, as weak as they might be, can provide high strength and toughness if arranged in a suitable way within the material.”
Professor of biomaterials Thomas Scheibel of the University of Bayreuth, Germany, who was also not involved in this work, says Buehler’s work is of the “highest caliber,” and will stimulate much further research. The MIT team’s approach, he says, “will provide a basis for better understanding of certain biological phenomena so far not understood.”
Since her childhood, bathing suit culture has shaped every aspect of Designer Whitney Andresen’s life including her incredible new collection Bikini Thief just launching for Summer 2010. Growing up surrounded by the ocean, Andresen spent much of her youth on Cape Cod and the island of Martha’s Vineyard. Her summers were spent running around the island, listening to Jimmy Buffett and fishing off docks and boats with her father one of the many boat captains in the family. From land to sea, Andresen always had a bathing suit on.
As a teenager Andresen adopted a love for surfing and its nomadic culture. As soon as she graduated from college, Whitney set off to surf the world bikini’s and flip flops in tow and she traveled beaches and waters around the globe, gathering diverse experiences that have shaped her life and swimwear. No matter where she went metropolitan cities or exotic locales the beautiful women in vibrant colors, patterns and styles, along with their confidence and serenity, were the key pieces that consistently caught Andresen’s eye, and she set her sights on creating that same sense of calm with her collection.
Bikini Thief is the must have new swim collection for anyone who loves water, sand—or a rooftop excursion.......There is a state of mind & silhouette for everyone (including Moms to be!).
Phantom, Canada's authority on fashionable legwear and maker of the nation's best-selling hosiery brand – Silks – brings the latest runway trends to women's wardrobes for Spring 2010. The European-inspired Silks Desire and Silks hosiery lines deliver the season's top fashion trends at excellent price points. New styles include tribal influences; bohemian gypsy chic and a glamorous nod to the Greek Goddess. Just in time for the delicate, less-forgiving fabrics of spring, Phantom introduces the new Silks Cellu-Smooth Capri. It's the innovative, cellulite-smoothing solution for underneath the season's hottest pant styles.
"At Phantom our goal is to make the latest trends and innovations in hosiery accessible to Canadian women at the highest quality and best value," says Linda Whitehead, Marketing Consultant, Phantom. "Our new hosiery collection picks up on runway trends and really allows women to update their wardrobes easily and affordably. Women also come to us for figure-fixing solutions and will find them in our latest Silks Cellu-Smooth products."
The season's hosiery trend round-up sees a return to nude sheers, the perfect complement to delicate warmer-weather fabrics; look-at-me prints including florals, paisleys, patchworks, geometrics and animal; the oh so practical leggings and a colour palette that ranges from vibrant earth tones to neutrals.
She's fierce!
Fashion runways were crawling with animal prints as part of this spring's sophisticated tribal look. Hosiery is the purrrfect way to reveal your wild side. Get the glamazon look, made famous by exotic beauties like Shakira and Iman, by matching Silks leopard lightweight print tights in Black, Metal or Copper to your cutest miniskirts and leggy dresses for a styling night on the town. For the adventurous, daring, confident woman!
Gypsy chic
Inspired by the exotic and eclectic beauty of the Middle East – and often seen on bo-ho glam celebs like Nicole Richie – the gypsy look brings a treasure trove of rich tapestry and geometric-inspired patterns to spring wardrobes. Add a touch of gypsy chic with Silks paisley or floral striped pantyhose in Black or Natural; or perhaps a zigzag pattern in Black or Copper. For the sexy, dramatic, contemporary woman!
European-inspired Silks Desire brings the Goddess glam
What's your Desire? Silks Desire is Phantom's new, premiere line of European-inspired hosiery. With a wide variety of sophisticated, glamorous styles, Silks Desire features smooth finishes and sculptured textures with an absolutely sumptuous feel against the skin. From the sheerest sheers (10 denier) to luxurious, densely opaque tights (100 denier) – there's something to fulfill every woman's desire.
Emulating the sensual, romantic and graceful Greek Goddess, Silks Desire offers a range of hosiery to suit – elaborate brocades and florals and a palette of neutrals and deep rich hues. To get the look, typical of leading-lady Angelina Jolie, try the sheer wave pattern in Nero and Naturelle or the scroll crochet tights in Nero, Naturelle and Moka. For the feminine, graceful, elegant woman!
Get Leggy with Leggings!
The strong leggings trend continues in 2010 as the ideal transition item for slowly but surely rising Canadian temperatures and spring hemlines. Silks Desire offers luxurious 100 denier leggings with control top in either Black or Grigio (grey). Silks Ultimate leggings are available in ultra-opaque Black. Silks fashion leggings in either Black or Copper are accented with stylish trim detail at the ankle.
Silks and Silks Desire hosiery collections include a vast assortment of sheers, tights, knee-highs, and leggings offering the latest fashion trends such as patterns, textures, sheen and crochet. Many are available in control top.
Silks Cellu-Smooth says goodbye to lumps and bumps!
Silks continues to lead in hosiery innovation with the Silks Cellu-Smooth collection designed and carefully constructed with compression to stimulate circulation and help smooth out the signs of cellulite. Infused with Sea Kelp to help revitalize, nourish and condition the skin, Silks Cellu-Smooth hosiery contains massaging nutrients that help minimize the appearance of dreaded cellulite.
New for Spring 2010 is the Silks Cellu-Smooth longline control top Capri. Ideal for wearing under pants, the Capri smoothes out your figure making it the perfect foundation for the season's latest styles!
The new Capri increases the Cellu-Smooth collection to three all-over-control shaping styles including a pantyhose and shaper panty. All three deliver the ultimate smooth silhouette, are available in Black and Natural.
Made from a nylon-Lycra blend, Silks Cellu-Smooth hosiery's high-tech fabrication includes:
• Pressure points throughout the bottom and thigh areas to lift and smooth
• Extended waistband for maximum comfort and support
• Control top for a smooth silhouette
• Compression band to help lift bottom
• Longline pressure band to eliminate thigh bulges
"Cellu-Smooth hosiery technology is ideal for women who want a flawless look," says Whitehead. "The smoothing technology was developed by Phantom and is unique in the market place. It offers amazing results that compare to products at the high end – but at a fraction of the price. We ran an intensive eight week fit trial with 60 women which was a smashing success – the women saw results and loved it!"
Valeria Moniz of Toronto took part in the Silks Cellu-Smooth trial and explains, "I am usually quite skeptical of products that claim too much. If I hadn't tried these for myself I probably would not have bought them! The product is truly exceptional. I have been telling everyone I know about them."
Models present creations during the L'Oreal Melbourne Festival 2010 held at the Docklands in Melbourne, Australia, March 15, 2010. This year's fashion festival, which is from March 14 through 21, staged its first show here on Monday.
Striking poses in front of giant icebergs, models present the
latest inpirations of German designer Karl Lagerfeld.
Models in head-to-toe yeti suits picked their way around towering but quickly melting icebergs, sloshing through a deep puddle of Arctic melt in their shaggy fake fur. Call it "climate change chic" Chanel style, with Hollywood bad girl Lindsay Lohan and French singer-actress and Chanel muse Vanessa Paradis present.
Designer Karl Lagerfeld looked on Tuesday to global warming, turning the melting of the polar ice caps into fodder for Chanel's fall/winter 2010-11 ready-to-wear look. Because, after all, what use is the threat of a catastrophe of global proportions if not to fuel fashion trends and inspire clever variations on Chanel's iconic styles?
Models in classic Chanel suits with fur trim or tweed jackets paired with pants that looked like they were made out of Chewbacca, from Star Wars, struck poses in front of the giant icebergs, which had apparently been delivered from Sweden.
"This fake fur gives a very beautiful new volume. It's a pleasure to touch and to wear it. It's light and warm," Lagerfeld said.
The born provocateur couldn't resist taking just one little jab at anti-fur activists.
"It is easy to be against fur, but people in the North have to make their living, they are living with nothing else (and) have no other jobs," he said in his rat-a-tat diction.
The models kicked up a spray of droplets as they tromped the watery catwalk, and the hemlines of their ankle-length rockstar coats - worn with cocktail dresses
The over-the-top Arctic production once again raised the bar for the French luxury powerhouse, whose high-budget theatrical presentations and larger-than-life celebrity designer have helped make it one of the most highly anticipated shows on the Paris calendar.
Another highly anticipated show - that of wildly inventive British designer Alexander McQueen - was scrapped after his death last month by apparent suicide. Instead, fashion elites were invited on Tuesday to view pieces from his final collection.
At Valentino, the new design duo struck the right balance between the storied house's tradition and their own vision. For their third ready-to-wear collection for the label, the pair sent out a strong collection that was neither slavish to the archive nor too far removed from the brand's aesthetic.
Valentino's longtime partner, Giancarlo Giametti, hailed Tuesday's stride. After several shaky seasons at Chloe, the designer finally managed to capture the cool Paris label's romantic, slightly bohemian attitude.
Hannah MacGibbon delivered clean-lined silhouettes in camel and chambray, with plain-fronted high-waisted pants and crewneck sweaters, oversized hooded coats and romantic button-down blouses.
A-line capes in butterscotch felt were paired with wide-legged tweed trousers and knit jumpsuits that exuded relaxed, 1970s Parisian chic. There was also a hint of the American West in the long coats with leather fringe and high-rise leather shorts.
At Thierry Mugler, Spain's Rosemary Rodriguez pulled off a similarly convincing performance with a collection that was all sharp edges and futuristic shapes.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, France's reigning king of kitsch, looked to Lady Godiva for a droll collection that left no Medieval stone unturned.
While the collection was still rife with the kitschy tongue-in-cheek irony that is Castelbajac's trademark, it had a more grown-up feeling than usual. The beautifully cut tapestry jackets looked likely to have commercial appeal beyond the label's usual teenage demographic and could even appeal to the chic middle-aged Parisiennes who normally wouldn't be caught dead in Castelbajac.
"We're growing up," the designer told reporters backstage after the show. "It's still Castelbajac, but with really worked silhouettes and really fine tailoring and work."
Asked why he'd chosen the Middle Ages as inspiration, Castelbajac said "it was all about Lady Godiva. She was so strong, so sexy. I think she's really a model for this century."
Paris' marathon eight-day-long ready-to-wear week was winding down on Wednesday with shows by French luxury behemoths Louis Vuitton and Hermes, Prada second line Miu Miu and Hollywood's favorite Lebanese designer, Elie Saab - the brains behind Up in the Air co-star Anna Kendrick's blush-colored Oscar gown.
Ministry of Textile’s (MINTEX) decision of further extending the ceiling on export of all type of yarn and capping it at 35 million kg per month, while exempting value-added yarn fetching a price higher than or equal to $3.5 per kg, has been praised by the value-added textile export sector.
The move of MINTEX would bring about some relief for the value added textile export sector, an industry spokesperson divulged. He also stated that the allocation of about Rs five billion that is given to the spinning sector against LTF should be diverted to the value-added sector, which fetches considerable foreign exchange in the country’s economy.
In order to bring to an end, hoarding of large volumes of cotton by some of the spinners, it was recommended that MINTEX needs to act firmly. Also legal provisions should be made to the effect that spinners should not be allowed to accumulate cotton, in excess of their three months requirements.
The popular Boba 2G baby carrier from NAP, Inc. has unveiled its newest print fabric design that will be available for purchase in June. Made entirely in the USA, the new Boba 2G is the first soft structured, backpack-style baby carrier to feature both leg support and head protection for babies and toddlers weighing between 15 and 45 lbs.
The baby carrier that is a favorite among babywearing parents is getting a fresh new look for summer. NAP, Inc.'s Boba 2G is the only baby carrier that provides complete leg support for a baby or toddler with its patent-pending foot straps as well as head protection with a sleeping hood. Adding to its list of exclusive features, starting in June the Boba 2G baby carrier will be available in a new nature-inspired print fabric design from Germany's Dennis Bennett.
"We think parents and kids will love our fresh new nature-themed print design on the Boba 2G baby carrier," said Robert Antunovic, CEO of NAP, Inc. "The new Boba 2G has been tremendously popular this spring. It continues to be a first-of-kind baby carrier delivering excellent value with its unique ergonomic design providing maximum comfort for the adult and child - as well as the highest quality construction."
In February NAP, Inc., together with Spoonflower, held a new fabric design competition. Hundreds of new print fabric designs were submitted for the new Boba 2G from around the world. The winning design, Dennis Bennett's bird themed print, was chosen by popular vote.
The Boba 2G baby carrier presently comes in six nature-inspired color combinations - Aspen, Cedar, Chestnut, Pine, Walnut and Willow. It is ideal for children weighing between 15 and 45 lbs.
Other benefits the Boba 2G baby carrier provides include:
• Maximum comfort for adults with a contoured, ergonomic waist belt featuring high quality foam.
• Child is safe at all times with Boba 2G's ultra-secure waist belt featuring a military grade buckle.
• The most affordable organic soft structured baby carrier available made entirely in the USA.
• Human-friendly materials - made without pesticides, herbicides or harsh chemicals. Boba 2G's shell and batting are made with GOTS and OE100 certified organic cotton and lined with 100% organic Texas cotton.
• Extremely easy to wear and use. The child can be carried on the adult's front or back.
• Lightweight for adults – Boba 2G weighs less than 2 lbs.
• No poking poles or metal parts. The comfortable Boba 2G is compact, adjustable, gently form fitting, and is 15 tall x 16 wide.
• Completely adjustable and easily fits adults of all shapes and sizes.
USDA releases the latest report on cotton production and prices. World cotton production in 2009/10 is estimated to decline 5 percent from the previous year to 102.2 million bales. Although production increases in 2009/10 are expected in some major cotton-producing countries, such as India, Pakistan, Brazil, and Australia, production declines in other countries are expected to more than offset the gains.
In 2009/10, China's cotton production is estimated to decline 14 percent from the previous year to 31.5 million bales. In that same period, Uzbekistan is expected to reduce production 11 percent to 4.1 million bales, while the United States' crop is estimated to have declined 3 percent from a year earlier. The reduction in 2009/10 global cotton production is driven in large part by the 2008 financial crisis and rising production costs that reduced area devoted to cotton.
World cotton area in 2009/10 is estimated at 30.4 million hectares, down 1 percent from the previous year and the lowest area in more than two decades. With the exception of India, most major cotton-producing countries, such as China, Brazil, and Uzbekistan, have decreased area in 2009/10. The African Franc Zone is also expected to reduce area 8 percent to 1.4 million hectares in 2009/10. Global yields are estimated at 733 kg/ha, down 4 percent from 2008/09.
World cotton imports in 2009/10 are estimated at 34.4 million bales, up 15 percent (4.4 million bales) from a year earlier. Significant rebounds are expected in major cotton importing countries, such as China, Pakistan, and Turkey. China is expected to increase its 2009/10 imports 36 percent to 9.5 million bales from the previous year. If realized, China's expected imports are a further sign that the impact of the 2008 financial crisis has significantly diminished. Pakistan is expected to import 2.5 million bales, up 28 percent from the previous year. Turkey's 2009/10 imports are forecast at 3.5 million bales, up 21 percent from a year ago. Increases in trade are also expected in Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Mexico, where cotton imports are estimated to rise—respectively—5 percent to 4 million bales, 4 percent to 2.1 million bales, and 14 percent to 1.5 million bales from the previous year.
While exports in the United States and Brazil are estimated to decline 10 percent and 27 percent to 12 million bales and 2 million bales, respectively, increases are expected for some other major cotton exporting countries. India is expected to increase its 2009/10 exports by nearly threefold to 6.1 million bales from the previous year. Australia’s exports are estimated at 1.8 million bales, up 50 percent from the previous year. Uzbekistan and the African Franc Zone are expected to increase 2009/10 exports by 30 percent and 3 percent, to 3.9 million bales and 2.3 million bales, respectively, from a year earlier.
Global cotton consumption in 2009/10 is estimated at 115.7 million bales, up 5 percent from the previous year as the global economic outlook brightens for 2010. A significant mill use increase is forecast for China, where consumption is expected to rise 8 percent from the previous year to 47.5 million bales. India is expected to consume 19.2 million bales, up 7 percent from a year earlier and the highest annual consumption on record. Cotton mill use is also expected to rise 2 percent to 11.8 million bales in Pakistan. Turkey is expected to consume 5.3 million bales in 2009/10, a 6-percent increase from a year ago. Meanwhile, 2009/10 U.S. consumption is estimated to decline 2.5 percent to 3.5 million bales.
World ending cotton stocks in 2009/10 are estimated at 51.4 million bales, down 18 percent from a year earlier. This is the third consecutive annual decline in world stocks, and the largest year-to-year decline both in terms of size and percent seen in over a decade. Tightening global stocks have resulted in rising cotton prices.
The Cotlook Far East A-index in 2009/10 is currently projected at 78 cents per pound, up 28 percent from a year ago. Rising global cotton consumption and declining production in recent years have squeezed stocks and propelled cotton prices.
Models present creations by fashion designer Miguel Vieira as part of his Autumn/Winter 2010/11 collection during the Lisbon Fashion Week in Lisbon, capitla of Portugal, March 13, 2010.
Textile sector is at the forefront of the industrial and economic development of any country. Textile machinery is used in the fabrication and processing of fabrics. Technological advancements in the field of textile machinery have caused drastic transformation in the field of textiles. To enhance the industry, and update the textile sector with state of the art machinery, the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2010 event is planned.
The Event:
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2010 is organized by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organized by MP International Pte Ltd. The event is planned for execution from 22nd June 2010 till 26th June 2010 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China. It will highlight the strength of ITMA brand, featuring A to Z of textile machinery. Machineries involved in various process of fabric manufacturing such as non-woven, spinning, knitting and garments, testing, weaving, and packing will be displayed in the event.
Earlier in 2008, a combined show 'ITMA ASIA + CITME' was launched in China, combining two shows into one mega high-quality event, strongly supported by nine CEMATEX European textile machinery associations, CTMA (China Textile Machinery Association) and JTMA (Japan Textile Machinery Association). The second combined show is planned to be held in 2010 in Shanghai.
This milestone event is jointly planned by the European textile machinery association CEMATEX, and a Chinese consortium (CCPIT sub-council of Textile Industry, CTMA - China Textile Machinery Association, and CIEC - China International Exhibition Centre Group Corp.). The partnership brings together the technological power of the CEMATEX associations and countries in Europe (ACIMIT-Italy, amec amtex-Spain, BTMA-United Kingdom, GTM-Netherlands, Swissmem-Switzerland, Symatex-Belgium, TMAS-Sweden, UCMTF-France, VDMA-Germany), and the massive market for textile innovation provided by Chinese textile producers.
While sharing his thoughts regarding the event, Mr. Edward Roberts, President of CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, stated, "Both China and India are major textile manufacturing centers and their positive economic growth is extremely good news for the industry."
Predictions from the United Nations state that global economy is likely to bounce back in 2010 with an expected growth rate of 2.4%. With silver linings seen around the globe, and textile economy showing positive signs of revival after recession, the exhibition is gaining a positive momentum. Textile industry is showing their vote of confidence by signing up for the space. With nearly 95 percent of the exhibition space already sold; the proposed event is getting a strong support from textile machinery makers from all across the globe.