Rebekah Wing
Samantha Mariko
Mirka Germanova
Guiri Uribe
Mallory W
MILAN (Reuters) – Fashion designers poured gold onto the Milan catwalks this week with collections rich in metallic finishes and designed to appeal to buyers who are keeping the luxury industry afloat in austere times.
Luxury goods firms at Milan fashion week were reluctant to discuss growth in 2012, but said surging demand from emerging market countries such as China could help the industry ride out any recession which arises from the current Euro zone crisis and a global economic malaise.
"I cannot make forecasts for next year given the current economic situation," Michele Norsa, chief executive of shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo told Reuters before a show at Milan's stock exchange, where the group listed in June.
Fashion doyen Giorgio Armani's catwalk collection displayed thin trousers underneath longer dresses, a layered look that some experts said could be targeted at women from the Middle East and China.
"Many houses are pinning their hopes on geographies that they weren't even operating in 10 years ago," James Lawson, director of international luxury market research specialists Ledbury Research, told Reuters. "Asia, for example, accounts for about half of the recent growth in the industry," he said.
The fashion industry, a key contributor to Italy's economy, is expected to generate almost 63 billion euros ($86 billion)this year, up only 4 percent from 2010 after Italy's Chamber of Fashion halved its forecasts. However, demand for Italian quality remains high among Asian customers, experts said.
"The Chinese love our style," Chamber of Fashion President Mario Boselli said at the launch of luxury label Gucci's new museum in Florence.
Armani's spring/summer 2012 collection also offered soft jackets employing a tiny concealed hook to hold them closed and sheer evening dresses embroidered with minute translucent crystals like drops of water.
"Women can be romantic, but also strong," Armani said after his show.
Hem lengths were short at Versace and Roberto Cavalli, but longer at Prada and Armani, pleats appeared at a number of shows and themes such as Art Deco and Bauhaus waltzed through some of the collections.
Designer Miuccia Prada struck a more traditional and soft conservative note for women with round-shouldered coats bearing woolly roses and gave a nod to the 1950s with automobile prints on coats, skirts, and dresses twinned with heels bearing hot rod flame designs.
"I wanted a sweet woman for next summer," Prada told Reuters backstage at her show.
Donatella Versace used studs on neoprene short dresses, while sculpted jackets were paired with shorts and high wedge heels. Jersey dresses had pleats and crystals.
Gucci designer Frida Giannini marked the 90th anniversary of the brand with a tribute to Art Deco, a motif also seen at Cavalli. Giannini brought 1920s "Charleston" dresses with lame fringes to the catwalk mixed with zebra or tiger prints.
Cavalli's collection also took its inspiration from Art Deco and Germany's Bauhaus movement for a glittering show, where gold dominated the catwalk. Slim-fitting gilets had padded shoulders, while skirts in animal or floral prints were trimmed with silk.
Designer Massimiliano Giornetti created sandals with gilt soles for Ferragamo and paired them with silk dresses in animal prints draped at the waist, while Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier showed off a layered look which altered the silhouettes of dresses. ($1 = 0.733 Euros)
Cherokee Inc. a leading innovator and global marketer of fashion and lifestyle brands it owns and represents in multiple consumer product categories and sectors around the world, announced the hire of Sally Mueller as the Company's Chief Brand Officer and Jamie Curtis as its VP Marketing. Both will be based in Cherokee's new marketing office located in Minneapolis, Minnesota.
In this newly created position as Chief Brand Officer, Ms. Mueller will be responsible for building a highly-effective, world-class marketing and creative organization to identify opportunities for brand acquisitions while furthering the development of Cherokee's new and existing businesses. In addition, on the business development front, Ms. Mueller will draw from her senior-level retailer experience to further enhance the Company's brand visibility.
Ms. Mueller joins The Cherokee Group with over 24 years of experience at the Target Corporation, where she helped take the company from a regional discount retailer to an internationally recognized global brand. While at Target, Ms. Mueller spearheaded many initiatives including the "Sign of the Times," "Design for All," and "Go International," each of which helped bring Target to the forefront of the global retail market.
"I have worked closely with Sally this past year as we have developed the new Global Vision for our Cherokee brand. Sally possesses the rare combination of creative and analytical skills that combined with her practical hands-on experience, presented a tremendous strategic opportunity for Cherokee," said Henry Stupp, Chief Executive Officer of The Cherokee Group.
"Sally's many years of senior-level experience with our largest domestic partner, Target, along with her visionary work on numerous nationally and globally recognized brands, will be a critical part to the continued redesign and enhancement of the Cherokee's group of brands. We look forward to working together as we deliver high-quality materials, marketing innovations and strategic opportunities that grow our business on a global basis. Hiring someone of Sally's caliber as part of our team signals a new era in Cherokee's long-term commitment and vision for our Company."
Ms. Curtis joins the Cherokee Group from Coach Inc., where she most recently served as Senior Director of Collaborations. Prior to Coach, Ms. Curtis worked in the Marketing Department at Target Corporation. Ms. Curtis will work with Cherokee's senior management in the identification and generation of new revenue streams by providing marketing leadership for the Company's existing and new brand acquisitions.
"In this newly created position of VP Marketing, Jamie will bring over a decade of 'fashion & brand' experience, excitement and energy to our company's marketing efforts," noted Henry Stupp. "I am proud that we are attracting high-level talent that shares the same vision, enthusiasm and passion for our brands as I do, and recognizes the progress that has been made over the past year at The Cherokee Group. Together Sally and Jamie form an important catalyst for future growth, and on behalf of our dedicated team and partners in over 30 countries, we welcome them to our company."
Cherokee Inc. is a global marketer and manager of a portfolio of fashion and lifestyle brands it owns and represents in multiple consumer product categories and sectors around the world.
PARIS (Reuters) – Paris Fashion Week kicked off on Tuesday under a cloud of economic pessimism mixed with uncertainty about the creative direction of some of the world's biggest fashion brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine and Yves Saint Laurent.
After New York, London and Milan, Paris closes the season of presentations for next spring and summer with nine days of shows at which designers will be fighting for buyers and media attention amid worries about a possible economic slowdown.
In an early sign of trouble, Barbara Bui, one of France's few listed fashion brands, said earlier this month trading had become more unpredictable as it was concerned rising European taxes could affect consumer spending.
The next three months to Christmas is the make-or-break period for fashion brands when they sell the most products at full price. It is also when orders for next spring are made.
In France, business and consumer confidence slumped in September as investors questioned the solidity of the banking system, future growth prospects and whether the current euro zone debt crisis could be solved.
Making the industry's future even more of a guessing game, many top fashion houses are looking to for a next generation of designers to inject youth and excitement.
Christian Dior's show on Friday will be the talk of the town as the brand is still without a designer six months after the departure of John Galliano whose career at the French house ended abruptly after making anti-Semitic remarks at a Paris bar.
Dior's first show without Galliano in July was panned by critics as confusing and too zany.
Sources close to LVMH, the world's biggest maker of luxury goods which controls Dior, say Marc Jacobs, currently designer at sister brand Louis Vuitton, could succeed Galliano.
But media reports suggest negotiations are proving difficult partly for money reasons. If it happened, the move would trigger a new series of revolving doors within LVMH's stable of fashion brands and other fashion companies.
Late on Monday, Yves Saint Laurent moved to quash media speculation that Raf Simons, Jil Sander's current designer, could replace Stefano Pilati at the French fashion brand.
There has also been speculation Phoebe Philo, the creative head at Celine who has successfully revamped the brand since 2008 with her minimalist style, could take over at Louis Vuitton if Jacobs left for Dior.
Much of the fashion press in recent weeks has been welcoming Jacob's potential arrival at Dior as he is regarded as a safe pair of hands with a proven track record.
Jacobs is credited with helping turn Louis Vuitton into the world's biggest luxury brand, raking in nearly 6 billion euros ($8 billion) in annual sales and generating more than half of LVMH's operating profits.
Discussions regarding Jacobs come as Louis Vuitton recently named Jordi Constans, a former Danone executive, as successor to current chief executive Yves Carcelle after a transition year and starting in early 2013.
Louis Vuitton's show on Wednesday will be among the last of Paris Fashion Week. Prior to it, fashion experts will focus on Lanvin, which like Dior is on Friday and is seen as a trend-setter.
Other major shows include Hermes and John Galliano - its first without its founding designer - on Sunday. Later on Tuesday, all eyes will be on Chanel, Valentino and Alexander McQueen's whose designer Sarah Burton is all the rage since she designed Kate Middleton's wedding dress.
Much of focus will also be on the performance of newcomers following an unprecedented wave of departures last spring at high-profile brands such as Balmain, Azzaro, Chloe, Cacharel and Kenzo. Their respective successors will be presenting their first collections this week.
Fashion watchers will also expect an update at Sonia Rykiel, one of the last family-controlled French fashion houses, which is looking for investors to expand in new markets such as Asia.
Milan – Produce - exotic, tropical and always Sicilian - was the leitmotif of a circus gal Dolce & Gabbana spring 2012 show in Milan on Sunday, Sept. 25, when the duo sent a giant produce market of prints out onto their catwalk.
Hefty purple onions, baskets of tomatoes and red peppers enlarged to become foot-size were just some of the images used on below-the-knee skirts, gathered and puckered bra tops and naughty picnic frocks.
All these Sicilian referential clothing was shown under a giant skyline of colorful fun-fair lights, taken from a real traveling Italian festival market.
"Hey Mambo," sang out Sophia Loren on the Italo-Cubano soundtrack, matching the steamy Latino lover mood of the collection, entitled "Bread, Love and Italian Beauty."
Staged in the company's custom-made central Milan show-space, the clothes also featured aubergines, courgettes and the sort of lace one finds on Aeolian Island terrace restaurant tablecloths. It was an agreeable meeting of tacky beachfront cafe and steamy Palermo babes, a saucy collection that had the models vamping down the catwalk.
It's finale, two score of beauties in glitzy boudoir variations of trapeze artist leotards, won great applause. There might be classier brands in Paris, more arty one's in this city, and edgier houses in London and New York, but the girls on the catwalk of Dolce & Gabbana are somehow the prettiest on the fashion planet.
Milan – Though the clothes in the latest collection from Fendi had a timeless quality with their graphic purity and cerebral nonchalance, one could not help describing the look as existentialist, given its brainy, linear cool.
After two weeks of picnic clothes in collections in New York and London, all seemingly designed to help women forget the recession, it was striking to see this spring 2012 collection, with its grown up sensibility and sense of polished achievement.
Staged Thursday, Sept. 22, on a black and white catwalk with a fan like temperature gauge as a backdrop and an invitation in the same graphic style, the show opened with lots of symmetrical stripe ideas, from flared below the waist cocktails to beach wind-breaker stripe swing jackets to precisely perforated blousons.
The linear quality was apparent throughout with some brilliant slingback shoes with circus tent stripes; though one of the smartest ideas were randomly placed fabric grommets on white cocktails and natty new totes.
Being Fendi there were lots of fur references, from a splendid peacock green knitted elongated waistcoat to some very snazzy mink and fox trim of jeweled clutches.
The show also featured a remarkable new hairstyle, an ever so faintly disheveled bouffant, that designer Karl Lagerfeld called, "Monica Vitti in a storm," in reference to the famed Italian actress.
Snippets of conversations lifted from Michelangelo Antonioni's 1961 movie "La Notte," in which Vitti stars, filled the soundtrack. In an evocative evening finale, a series of layered tulle and chiffon looks, each more arty than the other, captured the moody beauty of this classic film, a meditation on the occasional pointlessness of polite existence, and the need for an individual to give life meaning by living it sincerely and honestly.
No wonder there was an overriding feeling leaving this show that this was indeed a Fendi existentialist moment, since this was all about honestly crafted chic.
On Thursday, September 15th Laura Smalls unveiled her S/S 2012 "Legacy" runway, anchored by her signature collection of dresses featuring both slim-shaped and flare silhouettes. Her looks incorporated lots of draping details, patchwork, color blocks, and appliqué details while also playing with striped patterns. She was right on trend with color, infusing a palette of sun bursting yellows, blood orange hues and green brights complimented by a chic collection of Manolo Blahnik heels.
Since beginning her independent designs in 2009 with her "30 Dresses” collection, it is expected that Smalls will put on a runway that exudes elegance and sophistication and her fifth series delivered that and more. The audience was filled with the "who's who" of New York and fashion in front row attendance at the luxurious Centurion Condominiums penthouse setting, including Vogue's Andre Leon Talley, Italian Vogue's Bethann Hardison, supermodel Chanel Iman, music icon Valerie Simpson, opera sensation Kathleen Battle and actress Grace Hightower De Niro.
"Laura Smalls has the ability to register modern contemporary fashion that is a throwback to ladylike elegance when dressing up for any moment in a day meant something", said Vogue's Contributing Editor Andre Leon Talley post show. "Think Sophisticated Lady”, he continues, “Vibrant color for spring is the new trend. Smalls puts the vitality of saturated celadon green in satin evening dress with embroidered petals at the hem for a dramatic red carpet entrance maker.
She has fused spring with the vibrant strong color as in her peony pink Sophia Loren dress, as well as great style in little black dresses that evoke the elegance of an American original Grace Kelly. Her fluid, jersey dresses are outstanding; she underscores her silhouettes with a nuance of fine dressmaking. I love her sense of drape in asymmetrical jersey dinner dresses. Smalls never forgets to mark her silhouette with a flattering drape."
Over the past year, First Lady Michelle Obama has incorporated Smalls' looks into her style repertoire. In addition to America's First Lady, her designs have also been donned by Kourtney Kardashian, Amber Rose and Heidy Allende giving further evidence that the Laura Smalls collection is becoming a red carpet must have.
This S/S 2012 show was produced in dedication to Smalls' dear friend and famed Motown songwriter, Nick Ashford.
Pantone LLC, an X-Rite company and the global authority on color and provider of professional color standards for the design industries, announced the Spring/Summer 2013 edition of PANTONE VIEW Colour Planner. This multi-discipline color forecast, titled unity & CO, highlights the key color palettes for women’s wear, menswear, active wear, cosmetics, lifestyle and industrial, and graphic design.
PANTONE VIEW Colour Planner Spring/Summer 2013 pushes individuals to unite with one another again by rediscovering the power in numbers and embracing a new culture of unity. The power of one can be great, but the power of many is even more formidable as heritage and traditions are rediscovered in a modern, digitized manner.
The same applies to color, as it too evolves from creating an awestruck response by its power and brightness alone. As the use of color increases, it becomes more connected to material, shape and form in an integral way.
"Recent color block stories on the catwalk have paved the way for a new sense of color confidence among consumers. For some time, color alone has been a significant factor in purchasing decisions. Today, equally important is the context of those color statements – the finish, fabric and form in which it is used," said Laurie Pressman, vice president of fashion, home and interiors at Pantone.
PANTONE VIEW Colour Planner Spring/Summer 2013 contains the following eight palettes:
CO-nversation
Slowly emerging from white, mauve and fuchsia develop into delicate hues, while a warm sand tone forms a stable base for the more ethereal pink. The resulting range is subtle and delicate, infusing a sense of calm and serenity.
CO-llaboration
A new approach to neutrals, dusted pink, greeny-blue and burnt yellows create a family of easy base colors for outerwear and interiors alike.
CO-nnected
Connected is a color range for celebrating enthusiasm and the vitality of life, as yellow emerges from pure white, diluted and matte at first then gaining energy to end up reflecting the sun.
CO-mmunity
A new level of natural colors which are easy to mix and use, replacing black for a far more exotic approach – dry browns, watered browns, wood browns and earth browns.
CO-ntain
Based on naturals; simple, refined whites like eggshell; flesh tones, which reinforce the belief that neutrals are becoming more colored; warm and static black with deep navy and duck-egg blue.
CO-mpanion
A monumental simplicity of colors with their feet in nature suggests combinations of confident opposites or intimate tonalities. It is a core baseline palette of blues that frames and sets all the key accents.
CO-llective
Brights move from the primary spectrum of past seasons into a new fluorescent range. These super strong colors are paired with a family of soft sisters: five sweetened pastel tones.
MILAN (Reuters) – Designers have prepared a marathon of catwalk shows and gala openings to wow shoppers and woo their wallets at a Milan fashion week which starts on Wednesday amid winds of recession.
Top brands such as Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo are betting on next summer, a key season for fashion sales, to lure customers who are heading into a penny-pinching European autumn.
Austerity measures, a wild stock market and Italy's downgrade by Standard & Poor's are weighing on the mood of European consumers, even in robust economies such as Germany.
"This is our chance to react to the crisis," Mario Boselli, chairman of Italy's National Chamber of Fashion, said at the presentation of the Milan week, running until Tuesday.
The luxury industry is traditionally resilient to economic crises, as it caters to the wealthy. However, frills are not immune to downturns and groups such as Ferragamo have been reluctant to talk about growth.
"As the autumn begins, the most evident aspect of the current economic situation is the total uncertainty over the future," Italy's Chamber of Fashion said in a report on economic trends.
Fashion is a key contributor to the euro-zone's third largest economy. Italian brands are expected to generate total revenues of almost 63 billion euros ($87 billion) this year, according to the Chamber of Fashion. This is only 4 percent more than last year after Italy's fashion body halved its initial forecast.
RETAIL SPIN
A whirlwind of around 70 catwalk shows and 50 showroom presentations will not be the only attraction for thousands of buyers and fashion bloggers descending on Milan.
Ferragamo will launch its first jewelry collection on Wednesday, as investors fleeing nervous financial markets turn to gold as a safer bet.
As retail remains a revenue-spinner for luxury makers, Gucci, LVMH's Louis Vuitton and Italian designer Anna Molinari will open sparkling new stores in the heart of Milan's fashion district this week.
Tire maker Pirelli opened its first flagship store on Tuesday in the company of supermodel Naomi Campbell. The clothing collection features customised rubber-soled shoes for 340 euros.
At the other end of the retail chain, Missoni's first collection for U.S. discount department store Target sold out in many U.S. stores in the first week of launch.
Italian luxury will also flaunt its roots with Gucci opening a museum in Florence on Monday and Trussardi celebrating its 100th anniversary.
A routine product placement agreement to provide the female cast members of MTV’s "Jersey Shore" with jeans has taken a turn for the Obscene.
On Wednesday, celebrity gossip website TMZ reported that "Jersey Shore" star Nicole "Snooki" Polizzi’s representative claimed Obscene Jeans had no right to use her name in promoting its product placement agreement with Celeb Branding, LLC. Snooki’s rep was quoted as saying, "The inclusion of Ms. Polizzi's name in the announcement was unauthorized. Ms. Polizzi has never been approached by the company."
Obscene Jeans Corp. signed a product placement agreement with Celeb Branding, LLC, to provide jeans for the "Jersey Shore" cast members’ televised and print magazine interviews and appearances. The TMZ report left little doubt that Celeb Branding couldn’t deliver on the terms of the deal.
"We signed an agreement with this company in good faith," said OBJE CEO Rachel Stark-Cappelli. “Once we started getting cease and desist letters, it didn’t take a genius to see that Celeb Branding has zero authority to act on behalf of the cast of ‘Jersey Shore.’ Snooki got used, and so did we.
"Despite the deal’s dissolution, Obscene Jeans are still the perfect fit for the Jersey Shore," she added.
Obscene Jeans Corp. (OBJE) is an emergent, design-based lifestyle brand and apparel company. OBJE is an OTCQB publicly traded company.
The United States Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel (USA-ITA) and the American Import Shippers Association (AISA) invite you to join us at the 23rd Annual Textile and Apparel Importer Trade and Transportation Conference on Tuesday, November 8, in New York City.
We are excited to host a number of Administration officials, industry experts, and special guests to discuss customs, supply-chain logistics, transportation, sourcing, and other key issues affecting the textile and apparel importer community.
The conference will include a full day of presentations as well as an exhibit hall featuring businesses that can help you and your bottom line.
USA-ITA is proud to be a member of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) Apparel Coalition, which recently launched a public position paper and corresponding website on September 8th during the eighth round of negotiations in Chicago. The Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) Apparel Coalition supports the negotiation of a 21st Century TPP agreement that generates new trade and investment opportunities for the benefit of workers, businesses, and families, including buying and selling goods and services, sustaining and growing well-paying jobs, and providing high added value for the U.S. and TPP economies.
Since its formation in 1987 as a not-for-profit, the American Import Shippers Association (AISA) has evolved into one of the world's largest international Shipping Associations serving U.S. importers of textiles, garments, footwear, and other consumer goods.
