Rita Galkina
IVANA J
Crystii Lin
Nhi Py
Theo Ortengren
NEW YORK – Once again, the Halston fashion brand has cleaned house, severing ties with Sarah Jessica Parker, who was creative director and president of the label's contemporary line, as well as with runway collection designer Marios Schwab and investor Harvey Weinstein.
Parker's departure was reported earlier this week by Women's Wear Daily and Vogue. On Friday, WWD reported Schwab and Weinstein were out.
The trio were part of an effort to resurrect the Halston brand, which has had many ups and downs since its 1970s glory days, when it was helmed by the late Roy Halston Frowick and was synonymous with a sexy, slinky disco style.
Halston will not show a spring 2012 designer collection at New York Fashion Week, and instead will focus on the lower-priced Halston Heritage line, WWD reported.
Marks & Spencer has long been the go-to high street store for underwear staples, but now the retail giant has reported a surge in underwear sales thanks to their Brazilian style knickers.
The pants, which sit low on the hips with a cutaway back that’s more covering than a thong, promise to banish visible panty lines underneath clingy and fitted clothing.
Sales of the underwear have soared by more than two-thirds in a year, with a whopping half a million pairs bought in the last three months alone.
Soozie Jenkinson, Head of Lingerie Design at M&S, believes the bumper Brazilian knicker sales at the store are because shoppers want the VPL zapping qualities of a thong but with more coverage.
She said: "We designed and launched the Brazilian knicker shape in 2005 – a cheekier cut than the boyshort, but more covering than a thong. This first to market knicker shape was inspired by the sexy bikinis worn by women on the beaches of Rio, hence the name The Brazilian!"
The style comes in a variety of colours and fabrics and is currently on a buy three for £10 offer.
Pop to your local M&S store to stock up now.
In order to attract new investments to the country, Taiwan's Council for Economic Planning and Development (CEPD) will be sending a delegation to Japan on August 28.
Christina Y. Liu, CEPD Minister said that after the disastrous earthquake and tsunami that hit north-eastern Japan on March 11, several Japanese companies have shown their interest to invest in machinery and textile industries of Taiwan. Hence, the main aim behind the visit of Taiwanese delegation to Japan will be to meet potential investors, Liu added.
Liu further said that the delegation would visit Japan's capital Tokyo and Osaka and would get in touch with Uniqlo, a popular garment brand which recently launched a store in Taipei, and Fanuc Corp., the world's leading producer of CNC (computer numerically controlled) devices and industrial robots.
The earthquake and tsunami have forced several Japanese companies to shift their production units to other countries. For example, the Fanuc Corp. has re-shifted its production to Taiwan. Some other large Japanese machinery companies too have shown their eagerness for setting up component plants in Taiwan.
Even in a town where celebrity-studded awards shows are commonplace, it was the most anticipated event of the season.
It wasn't Prince William's match at the charity polo game Saturday. It wasn't the visit to Los Angeles' Skid Row on Sunday.
It was the unveiling of the Duchess of Cambridge's travel wardrobe.
Much expectation followed the young royal couple as they took their first state trip to Canada and the United States, with royal-watchers wondering how they would handle themselves, celebrity-hounds delighting over the mix of real and Hollywood royalty, and fashion observers waiting for new looks from a duchess whose picks can clear stockrooms within hours of an appearance.
To many, the former Kate Middleton's sartorial choices in California hit just the right notes — even though she didn't pack any surprises.
She brought all feminine looks, among them: a pleated lilac floor-length gown designed by Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, a vibrant green Diane von Furstenberg shift with a waist-tie, and a silver silk dress with hand-painted flowers by British designer Jenny Packham.
"It's like our first ladies," said Kate Betts, a contributor editor for Time magazine and the author of "Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style." "We're always going to think of them as role models — people we look to as some kind of example, either by the way they dress or the way they speak."
The duchess eschewed bright colors and bold prints even in sunny Southern California, though she donned the floral Packham for a charity polo match in Santa Barbara.
That designer also made a yellow silk dress that the duchess wore in Canada. But Kate is known for repeats: She prefers drapey dresses by the Brazilian designer Issa; the cream Reiss dress she wore in her engagement photo showed up again in Canada; and her nude-colored leather pumps and straw box-clutch from British upscale fashion brand LK Bennett were frequent sights during the 11-day trip.
"She's repeating things to make sure people understand she's not overspending in this very difficult economic moment," Betts said. "It's very age-appropriate. She's what, 29? People that age don't have thousands of pairs of shoes. It's not something someone that age does or cares about."
For the celebrity-studded black-tie BAFTA dinner Saturday, where the royal couple were the honored guests, she wore the McQueen gown and a pair of Jimmy Choos platform sandals.
Avril Graham, a fellow Brit and executive fashion and beauty editor for Harper's Bazaar, said she wasn't surprised that Burton, who made Kate's two dresses on her wedding day, was responsible for the BAFTA gown.
Graham said its simplicity and bejeweled waistband recalled Kate's wedding reception dress. She praised the duchess for resisting "the temptation to overdress, over-glitz a la Hollywood red-carpet glam."
Betts also declared it a hit, saying that the duchess stuck to her usual "easy and fluid" style.
"It was fluid and beautiful, almost like a T-shirt. It had a very American feeling to it," she said. "When I looked at what the celebrities were wearing at the event, it seemed too uptight and over-done and over-styled compared to her."
The running theme among the outfits was a ladylike figure-flattering silhouette, in luxurious neutral fabrics with knee-length hems. The dresses nipped in at the waist, either with darts, a waist tie or a waistband, as with the light-gray frock by London-based designer Roksanda Ilincic that Kate changed into during the flight from Canada.
The knee-length dress had asymmetric draping from one shoulder with folds at the collar, a cut that both Betts and Graham loved.
"I love the ease of her style. I love the fact that she's wearing dresses, which actually when you think about it is a very American thing because if you look back at other royals, they wore suits," Betts said.
Betts noted that even though the duchess primarily wore British labels because "she has to wave the British flag too," she likely chose the Diane von Furstenberg dress for a reception Saturday "as a nod to American fashion."
"She really has to be a style ambassador for the U.K.," Graham said, noting that William's late mother, Princess Diana, at first wore British designers exclusively.
Graham called the duchess' choices "spot on," saying she displayed a "cautious selection that's worked well in her new role" but that Kate should take away from the trip a learning experience to be more adventurous in the future.
But don't ever expect Kate to dress down, Graham added. Even though the royal couple on Sunday visited an arts center in Los Angeles' gritty Skid Row, the duchess stayed prim in navy pumps with a matching crochet blouse and a white pleated skirt — an ensemble that didn't come from a glamorous fashion house but the U.K. high-street brand Whistles.
As a royal in a senior role, Kate's not allowed to have a bad fashion day if she's somewhere representing the crown, Graham added.
Celebrity stylist Robert Verdi said he was fascinated by the duchess and liked that her style "isn't vulgar," although he thought the McQueen gown at the BAFTA dinner was "a little matronly (because) you don't get a bust line."
He also called the soft colors of her other dresses "a little mother-of-the-bride... you could see it on a silver-haired mom at a wedding."
But Verdi said they were minor missteps considering "she had been thrown" into the international spotlight yet managed to stay true to her style and respectful of the crown.
The secret, he said, is the blind eye she turns to labels, whether they're off-the-rack or couture, and instead, consistently focuses on her own natural beauty.
"We don't know what's going on behind the scenes in the royal household but what's in front of us — which is what all we have to see and believe and understand — it feels positive," he said. "She's not a desperate housewife of New Jersey."
Adirée is pleased to announce that Origin Africa is a sponsor of Africa Fashion Week New York. AFWNY will take place at the Broad Street Ballroom on July 14th, 15th, 16th in New York City’s Financial District.
Origin Africa seeks to demonstrate to international buyers and industry leaders that creativity and innovation are an important part of Africa's future. Africa Fashion Week New York displays creativity and innovation from international designers of the African Diaspora in three days of fashion runway shows.
Origin Africa introduces skilled Africans to experienced industrial leaders, encouraging "trade not aid" efforts.
"Africa Fashion Week in New York is an exceptional platform to accomplish this. We are proud to collaborate with Adirée in such efforts and commend their dedication." noted Finn-Holm-Olsen, Director of the USAID/COMPETE East and Central Africa Trade Hub, the group heading up the Origin Africa campaign.
"It's our moment, and it's just beginning. Young African designers are becoming real players now. People have been taking resources from Africa for generations. But our generation, raised in both worlds, is changing that," said Adiat Disu. Director of AFWNY to the Washington Post.
AFWNY includes runway shows hosting 21+ designers from various countries in Africa and those of the African Diaspora, exhibitions, and industry networking events. Opening designer Korto Momolu and designers like Washington Roberts, Saint Wobil, AAMAA Couture, Bill Witherspoon and others will showcase. Sponsors include PopDrum, Mo-Saique, AveYou, Makari de Suisse, John Ashford, Renarda Joy, Fikirte Addis and Avaloni Studios.
Origin Africa is a USAID supported initiative of producers, designers, small businesses, exporters, buyers and retailers dedicated to improving African trade in four sectors: textiles/apparel, cut flowers, specialty foods, home décor, and fashion accessories.
BERLIN (Reuters Life!) – "Green glamour" is returning Berlin's fashion week to the map of trend-setting capitals, just at a time when consumers are turning to all things eco-friendly.
Two major "green" shows are exhibiting at this week's Berlin fashion week that ends on Friday.
They have recently been bought by Frankfurt Fair, the world's leader in textile and textile-technology, sending strong signals for sustainable products in the fashion sector .
"Sustainability is not a short-term trend, but a great new paradigm," Frankfurt Fair Chief Executive Detlef Braun told Reuters, adding that it was a lifestyle, affecting everything from production to retail.
In the last couple of years, eco textiles and fashion "have experienced a great leap forward, entering the fashion capitals of the world," Braun added.
It's also good for business.
"Labels realize that they won't get around the issue anymore, especially as consumers are increasingly conscious of the sustainability of the products they buy," said Friederike von Wedel of Berlin's ESMOD international fashion institute.
"Berlin is becoming an ever more important location for green fashion with international labels coming to enter the European market," said von Wedel, who directs the world's first master programme on sustainable fashion.
German voters have recently sent strong signals in favor of green policy. The Green party has risen from its beginnings as a political outsider to a mainstream party that earlier this year gained control of the affluent state of Baden-Wuerttemberg, a conservative stronghold for more than five decades.
The Greens have also benefited from Berlin's zig-zag policy on nuclear energy and have seen their popularity rise after Japan's Fukushima nuclear disaster in March.
Japan has become a growing market for eco-friendly fashion since Fukushima, said Jana Keller, cofounder of GREENShowroom, one of the eco fairs currently showing in Berlin.
CREATIVE HOTSPOT
Berlin's fashion week became increasingly sidelined internationally, but it has been able to win back some labels and a celebrity following recently. And the eco-niche has helped this trend, especially given the city's efforts to make itself a creative hotspot.
"Berlin is currently the most important location for green fashion," Kati Drescher, who runs an eco fashion showroom parallel to Fashion Week, told Reuters, adding that the city was a global trend-setter.
Green fashion positioned Berlin vis-a-vis other fashion capitals, said Christoph Lang of Berlin Fashion Week's production partner Berlin GmbH, adding that it was a growth sector with great future potential.
GREENShowroom, together with Ethical Show of Paris one of the shows Frankfurt Fair has also bought, has seen a trend for sustainable fashion develop in the course of a short time.
"Since our first event in 2009 with 16 exhibitors, we have grown to over 30," Keller of GREENShowroom told Reuters, adding there were around 500 companies worldwide today, which reflected their vision and concept.
Sustainability and green consciousness has also found its way into the mainstream with plenty of global retailers offering lines using organic cotton.
While only the most rigorous schemes live up to the standards Keller demands of the labels invited to exhibit at her fair, broader schemes by global firms still encourage production of sustainable cotton, she said.
Denim maker Levi's drive to reduce water usage illustrates the rising green consciousness in mainstream fashion, having reduced the amount of water used for its jeans, a process usually involving 42 litres, by an average of 28 percent.
At Berlin's current Bread & Butter trade fair, the Levi's stand uses empty bottles to illustrate the water consumption of jeans production, and encourages wearers to act green at home by washing their jeans less to save water.
Kerry Logistics has been appointed by Marks & Spencer(M&S) as its logistics partner in Greater China. The contract incorporates logistics services across the supply chain for M&S, from suppliers’ pick-up through to direct delivery to retail stores across the region.
Under the new contract, Kerry Logistics manages and operates both M&S’s National Distribution Centre (NDC) in Mainland China as well as its Regional Distribution Centre in Hong Kong (HKRDC). Under the direction of the M&S’ regional sourcing hub, Kerry Logistics manages M&S’s inbound and outbound supply chains and a wide range of value-added services including packing and unpacking, re-labeling and steaming.
In order for Kerry Logistics to align with M&S’s eco and ethical policy - Plan A, the HKRDC is located within Kerry Logistics’ Product Customization and Consolidation Centre (PC³) in Tai Po, Hong Kong. With the aim to be LEED (Gold) and HK-BEAM (Gold) compliant, this purpose-built facility has incorporated green technology into the design and construction of the building.
With a total area of 25,700 sq.m (or 277,000 sq.ft), PC³ is equipped with a Garment-On-Hanger (GOH) Centre – the largest facility of its kind in Hong Kong in terms of scale and capacity. The PC³ centre supports the daily replenishment of all M&S retail stores in Hong Kong, covering hanging and boxed garments as well as accessories, footwear and home products, whilst food merchandise is serviced from Kerry Logistics’ cold store facility located in Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong.
"One of the factors in awarding this contract was that Kerry Logistics specializes in both fashion retail and cold chain logistics, meeting our different needs on clothing and food merchandise under one roof," said Simeon Piasecki, Regional Managing Director - Asia, of M&S (Asia Pacific).
M&S is one of the UK’s leading retailers, with over 21 million people visiting their stores each week. It offers stylish, high quality, great value clothing and home products, as well as outstanding quality foods, responsibly sourced from around 2,000 suppliers globally.
Oswal Woolen Mills - owned by the Nahar group of companies will set up wind power projects in both, Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. This comes just after the company ventured in to solar energy production.
"We are going to install 5 MW by September-end in Tamil Nadu at an investment of more than Rs 500 million", said Mr Raj Sharma, President (Commercial Projects) - Oswal Woolen Mills Ltd.
Speaking to fibre2fashion, he continued, "The future lies in power only. For renewable energy, there are only two sources – one is solar and the other is wind energy. We have already ventured into solar energy in Rajasthan under NTPC Vidyut Vyapar Nigam (NVVM) scheme, so now we are going for wind also".
Revealing more details, he said, “The power production will be for commercial purpose and not domestic use, i.e. we will be selling it and not using it ourselves. We are entering into a Power Purchase Agreement (PPA) with the state”.
Giving reasons for selecting Tamil Nadu, he informed, "Tamil Nadu has got a very high power load factor (PLF), i.e. capacity utilization".
About the power generating capacity, he said, "That cannot be correctly said because, there are two different sites and I think we will be able to generate around 10 million units per annum, based on capacity of 5 MW".
"The technology has been provided by Suzlon and since this is our first time the real problem will be faced, once we are operational" he summed up by saying.
The AWEX Regional Indicators finished 2.9% lower, on average at the first sales of the new season in Sydney and Melbourne this week. The US exchange rate fell by 0.1%.
Note, AWEX announced a “rebasing” of the calculations for the Eastern and Regional Market Indicators for the new season. This was the first since July 2006; and has resulted in small changes to the calculations for these data. AWEX has recalculated the values for these Indicators for last week to enable correct week-on-week comparisons between this week and last week.
39,368 bales were on offer, compared with 31,351 bales at the last sale (when all three regions sold). Pass-in rates were comparatively low, given the fall in the market. 11.5% of the bales were passed in, comprised of 11.7% in Sydney and 11.2% in Melbourne. Pass-in rates for Merino fleece and skirtings were 12.3% and 14.9%, respectively. 34,856 bales were cleared to the trade.
The US exchange rate was relatively stable this week. The decision by the Reserve Bank to leave Australian interest rates unchanged was expected by financial analysts; and had little, if any effect on exchange rates.
This week saw another easing of the market, after the bull run from Easter to two weeks ago. Sales opened on a softer note on Wednesday, appeared to find a new level and generally firmed as the day proceeded. Further, but generally much smaller, falls occurred on Thursday. All micron ranges and all wool types were affected.
However, the market remains at very high levels.
The market would not have been helped by the news during the week of an increase in the expected offering for next week’s sale. It has lifted from 41,000 last Friday to 59,349 this week.
Skirtings experienced similar falls to fleece types on Wednesday. But, did better on Thursday when the better types firmed, or rose. Crossbreds eased sharply on Wednesday and moved down again on Thursday. They were more affected than Merino wools. Prices for oddments followed other types down on Wednesday, but had a more mixed day on Thursday, when some types firmed or gained a little, while others eased. The average AWEX Merino Cardings Price Guide was down by 2.6%.
Buyers for China were dominant with good buying support from India, Taiwan, Korea and Europe.
Sales will be held in Sydney, Melbourne and Fremantle next week in the last sale before the three week mid-year break. 59,349 bales are currently rostered for sale, a 49.5% increase when compared with the same sale last year.
Sales are in recess in South Africa until 17 August.
The Silk Fab Expo organised by the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) has been opened in Chennai. The Expo showcases various silk items from over 15 States with a wide range of fine silk saris, dupattas, dress materials, stoles and salwar suits.
Since the NHDC received excellent response when the expo was organised last time in Chennai, it has set off this year’s expo from this city.
The NHDC's motive behind organising the Expo is to establish a direct link between weavers and customers. The Expo provides a platform for weavers to enable them to become self-reliant.
This direct linkage helps artisans improve sale of their goods. However, being vary of consumer’s temperament, the artisans are now not repeating their designs and are trying to make their each product unique to maintain the value of their art.
Alongside the kosa silk saris and stoles with hand-painted madhubani designs, other fabrics uniquely embroidered with nakshi kantha designs which heavily relies on needlework, are also displayed at the Expo.
According to the weavers at the Expo, kantha silk and jute silks are preferred choices of Chennaites.
The fabrics displayed at the Expo bear a silk mark and handloom mark issued by the Ministry of Textiles to certify their authenticity.
A whole lot of hand-woven, fine fabric pieces, most of them diligently designed by women weavers, are also showcased at the Expo.
Some of the weaver participants from Madhya Pradesh stated that two weavers work on each sari and since all saris are handwoven, it serves as a source of livelihood for many.
The visitors who regularly visit the Expo every year found this year’s collection to be better with a change in variety on display.
The Silk Fab Expo, which serves as a platform for silk artisans from all across the country to display their products, will go on till 19th July.
