Paweł Lewandowski
Hedvig
Lauren Peacher
Steve Frous
Olivia P
You can't say we didn't warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that's not all.
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Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is.
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But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we're pretty sure he's up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe's classic look.
When Nick Waplington began to document the making of Alexander McQueen's fifteenth anniversary collection, the Horn of Plenty, he had no idea it would be one of the visionary's last. A friend of the late designer, Waplington, who was living in Israel and shooting another project when McQueen approached him about the collaboration in 2007, chronicled Fall 2009′s production for six months. He watched its inception in the designer's London studio—snapping away at model fittings and mood boards—and followed it all the way through to its now-legendary trip down a Paris runway, which was covered in heaps of spray-painted rubbish from McQueen's previous sets.
The resulting book, dubbed Alexander McQueen: Working Process, provides an intimate look at McQueen, his team (including Sarah Burton), and his methods—its pages depicting everything from moments of pain and anxiety to bursts of joy and laughter. "This project offers unprecedented insight into the mind of a notoriously private and at times willfully impenetrable man," writes journalist Susannah Frankel, who worked closely with the designer, in the tome's introduction. What's more is that the book, which Waplington describes as "a historical document," was largely edited by McQueen himself: He finished his selection before his tragic suicide in 2010. "It's really the last thing he ever made," Waplington said. Below, the photographer talks to Style.com about capturing the designer's legacy, his experience inside the luminary's studio, and what he learned of the real McQueen.
The Spring'14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we've asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it's a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we're continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring'14 previews is available here.
More so than in any other city, Milan designers and casting directors are known to favor established models over newcomers, but this week we witnessed a slew of fresh faces break through to the front of the pack. Many of the girls who started strong in New York and London (specifically, Malaika Firth, Anna Ewers, Kate Goodling, and Ophelie Guillermand) kept the pace up in Italy. Then Miuccia Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw introduced us to a whole new set of noteworthy rookies, including Nastya Sten (bottom left), Irina Liss (bottom right), and Paulina King. Flaxen-haired Sten debuted as an exclusive at Proenza Schouler (another Brokaw-cast show), scored a semi-exclusive spot at Prada, and went on to walk Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Roberto Cavalli, and open Aquilano.Rimondi. Meanwhile, we’ve fallen head over heels for Liss’ tight-lipped look. The otherworldly Russian followed up her Prada premiere with turns at Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, and Missoni. Finally, King made a splash at Prada, Marni (she bookended the show), and Jil Sander.
Another thing Milan was previously known for was overlooking minorities, so it was thrilling to see many of our favorite up-and-coming black models, including Firth, Binx Walton (top right), Cindy Bruna, Maria Borges (we never could’ve guessed that she would open Giorgio Armani), and Kai Newman making major strides this week. Newman, who hails from Kingston, Jamaica, positively wowed us at Gucci and Jil Sander. We can’t wait to see her go on to crush it in Paris.
Natalia Siodmiak (top left) is someone who has been making the rounds for several seasons but is suddenly at the top of everyone’s watch lists. After ending London on a high note with turns at Christopher Kane and Giles, the gap-toothed beauty cranked up the sex appeal at Gucci, Versace, and Emilio Pucci, and opened and closed Max Mara. It’s gratifying to see someone who’s been paying her dues finally have a moment. Speaking of moments, who could forget Moschino’s memorable roster of old-school supes, including Pat Cleveland, Alek Wek, Erin O’Connor, Jodie Kidd, and Diana Dondoe? Another runway high point was Liya Kebede and Malgosia Bela walking Emilio Pucci. And, naturally, there’s plenty in store for model-followers in Paris. Just today, iconic Snejana Onopka made a cameo appearance at Anthony Vaccarello, whipping the Fashion Spot forums into a frenzy.
The Spring'14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring'14 previews is availablehere.
Vanessa Traina is a busy bee. Somewhere between styling Joseph Altuzarra's Spring '14 runway and preparing to head to the shows in Paris, Traina's found time to serve as the executive creative director of THE LINE—a luxury e-tailer that launches today and features a tightly edited selection of clothing, beauty products, and home goods. Handpicked by Traina, the site's stock includes what the stylist calls "quintessentials"—that is, pieces that are clean, simple, and, above all, timeless. "With all of the fast fashion today, we felt the need to strip down and get back to the basics," Traina said. "We are not aiming to bring you the hottest trend of the season; we are presenting items that are elevated yet familiar."
One not-so-familiar brand is Protagonist, THE LINE's private collection designed by Kate Wendelborn (above). Protagonist captures THE LINE's minimalist focus: brushed wool pullovers, crisp white blouses, and boxy tunics (in shades of black, white, and blush) look current yet trend-proof.
Other brands featured include Reed Krakoff, Rodin Olio Lusso (best known for its cult-favorite beauty oil), interiors range Andrianna Shamaris, J.W. Anderson, Assouline, and Vince, among others. "We are very excited about the brands that we have on board," Traina said. "We essentially wanted to create the perfect, seasonless wardrobe—those items that you can throw on no matter the day, time, or season."
The Spring'14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring'14 previews is available here.
M Missoni marches to its own beat (literally—Missoni's fun younger label has been hosting music events and curating cool soundtracks for several seasons), and Spring '14's rhythm might be described as tribal meets psych-pop. The Italian house's signature space dye knits vibrated in neon hues, and subtle African influences were seen throughout the collection on drop-crotch paper-bag trousers, wrap skirts worn over matching leggings, and sheath dresses featuring artisanal raffia details. Meanwhile, a wavy gorilla print appeared on a cutout-shoulder top. As usual, there was a sporty undercurrent, and standouts here included a one-shoulder minidress cut from an electric-lime-colored mesh, as well as bracelets and slide sandals with bungee-rope details. All in all, the lineup made you want to put on an M.I.A. song and dance.
Thanks to a pretty significant headgear fetish, this editor has lost countless hours in front of the mirror, trying to tie scarves into the perfect turban. So you can imagine my surprise, delight, and quasi frustration when I discovered Hermes' brand-new iPhone app, Silk Knots—a program complete with videos, diagrams, and photos that show you how to fashion the ultimate head scarf. The app also details how to transform your scarf into a belt, a top, or a dress, as well as unexpected new ways to achieve an ideal drape around your neck. The app is free on iTunes—the Hermes scarf, however, is not.
For the past four years, Paris' famed Musee Galliera has been closed for renovations. This week, the historic fashion museum reopens with Alaia—the first Parisian retrospective dedicated to Azzedine Alaia's work. "For me, Alaia was the obvious choice—he stands alone," offered the Galliera's director, Olivier Saillard, who has curated the museum's roving shows since 2010. (The 2011 Madame Gres show—hosted by the Musee Bourdelle—as well as Tilda Swinton's mesmerizing Spring '13 performance, The Impossible Wardrobe, were both Saillard's work.) Here, in an exclusive preview, the curator speaks to Style.com about bringing a "new-old" museum back to life, what sets Alaia apart, and how Swinton has inspired him to take up sewing.
