Romek Gelard Gello
Julia Alcântara
Mc kenneth Licon
Theo Ortengren
Joana Gröblinghoff
Mexico City is rapidly emerging as a—if not the—hotbed for emerging art, fashion, and design. It boasts one of the globe's highest concentrations of museums, features cutting-edge architecture (check out Museo Soumaya, a hull-like structure plated in honeycomb blocks designed by the firm FR-EE), and just yesterday, received attention in a front-page New York Times article about its increasing attractiveness for expatriate artists and entrepreneurs. It seems the metropolis has appealed to designers, too, as traces of Mexico City popped up on a host of Spring '14 runways.
While such labels as Rodebjer and Rebecca Minkoff pulled inspiration from Mexico, the biggest splash belonged to Prada (as big splashes often do). Signora Miuccia commissioned a panel of muralists to paint her set with giant faces, which were replicated on dresses, skirts, and coats. Prada reported that political art out of Mexico—particularly the work of Diego Rivera—served as a strong source of inspiration, and the collection's first look featured a print by Mexican street artist Stinkfish.
At House of Holland, Henry Holland paid homage to Baz Luhrmann's 1996 hit Romeo + Juliet, much of which was filmed in Mexico City. Splendid hues and religious motifs weren't compromised, thanks to prints—which nodded to Mexico's deep Catholic roots—by L.A.-based tattoo artist Alex Garcia.
Considering that Annette and Phoebe Stephens—the duo behind New York-based jewelry line Anndra Neen—were raised in Mexico City, it is perhaps not surprising that notes from their childhood emerged in their latest offering. Spring '14's sculptural shields, triangular necklaces, and woven metal wares were reportedly inspired by Ron Fricke's 1992 globe-trotting documentary Baraka. The designers, who produce the line in Mexico City's Zona Rosa neighborhood, embraced not just Mexican artisanship but Namibian and MENA crafts as well. To top it off, the Stephens sisters showed their new range alongside their personal collection of Rivera works—the exact artist that led Ms. Prada, thousands of miles away in Milan, to her own effort.
Feminism is emerging as a strong Spring '14 theme—just look at Prada's triumphant parade of girl power or Eddie Borgo's Riot Grrrl-inspired range. Donatella Versace, who sent her skin-baring collection down the runway on Friday, joined the conversation this weekend, sounding off about feminism and sexy frocks in an interview with The Independent. "Every woman likes sex. If they don't like it, they should go to a shrink!"she said in reference to her sultry wares. "I'm not talking about sex-shop dresses, but dresses that can help you look better than you are and more confident…. When you are confident wearing certain kinds of clothes, you are more confident about your ideas and have more courage to say…your opinions,"she explained, later adding, "Sexy clothes don't only express 'I want sex,' but courage. 'This is me, this is my courage. You need to confront me."She definitely has a point—power dressing comes in all silhouettes and shades these days. However, we have a feeling that a sheer V-neck gown cut down to here might tempt one's company to focus on something other than her "opinions."
If there's anyone who could rival Charlotte Olympia designer Charlotte Dellal's quirky take on saucy accessories, it's Solange Azagury-Partridge. Best known for her surreal, rainbow-hued baubles (think bubblegum-pink pout-shaped rings, a necklace crafted to look like a veiny red heart, and earrings designed to resemble actual chandeliers), the London-based talent, who Dellal describes as one of her favorite jewelry designers, has teamed up with Charlotte Olympia for a collaboration with some serious pizzazz. Set to debut during Paris fashion week, the lineup features a wedge embellished with gold fringe, mirrored kicks that the designers have aptly dubbed the Dancing Shoes, the red-velvet and gilded 24 Carat Slide, and a pair of platforms inset with a bright green suede palm-tree motifs, which debuts exclusively here. Set to hit stores in March, this playful team-up will no doubt ignite more than a few footwear fetishes.
"Well, congratulations, New York City!" quipped Catherine Baba over the phone when we told her that the Big Apple had finally embraced Citi Bikes. Paris—her city of residence for almost two decades—launched its wildly popular shared vélo program a whopping six years ago.
As we're sure you've noticed while hopping between shows or browsing Tommy Ton's street-style snaps, cycling is the fashion set's favorite new mode of transport—but coordinating an outfit that's both front-row-worthy and ready to pedal across town is no easy task. Mme. Baba, however, has been doing just that for eighteen years—no doubt you've seen her, riding through the Tuileries in piles of jewelry, skyscraper heels, her signature turban, and, depending on the season, a kimono or a fur coat. (We have to note that she pulls her eccentric ensembles off with an astonishing level of aplomb.) "I get approached in different cities around the world by people who ask me if I'm the lady who rides the bicycle around Paris," offered Baba, who, with her dramatic hand gestures and injections of français, is as Parisienne as they come—albeit by way of Sydney.
"I'm very impatient. I need to move, and waiting for le métro is not an option," Baba told us when asked why cycling is her preferred form of transit. "It's the best way to see the city. And it's also environmentally friendly—the more we can remember that, the better." Here, the singular styliste shares her acquired biking wisdom. Whether pedaling to the shows in Paris or just cruising over the Williamsburg Bridge, we'll be keeping Baba's tips in mind—even though some of her most fantastic suggestions may be mildly ill advised.
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in Milan, and will be followed by the shows in Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek.
Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
"You can't come right out of the gate knowing exactly who you are and what people want from you. I still have a long way to go to realize my original concept for Crippen," said Susie Crippen at a showroom preview of her latest Spring lineup. Since launching her namesake label just about a year ago, the former J Brand co-founder has worked to establish a collection of no-frills building blocks for a modern wardrobe. "At the end of the day, my job is to make things easier for my customers—doctors, lawyers, actresses, and producers who all lead busy lives—so they don't have to overthink getting dressed in the morning," explained the designer.
Over the past three seasons, she has evolved and expanded her range of fully functional yet sophisticated staples, including tailored suiting separates, basic button-ups, leather jackets and pants, and, naturally, jeans. This time around, Crippen introduced several more ladylike pieces, among them a full, bias-cut silk skirt made for twirling. "We tried to do a skirt three times and finally got it right," she said. Another sophisticated standout was what she called the Gallery Dress, a clean, midi-length number with a flattering, relaxed fit that is just the kind of thing you'd wear to an art opening (coming straight from the office, no less) paired with a vintage bracelet and statement shoe, as Crippen suggested. As usual, the denim was on point. By now, she has developed a handful of solid styles (like the classic dark-rinse, straight-leg Little Dude, or the slim Stevie stovepipes) that she plans to stick with but update in different washes each season. One crisp ivory pair here appeared to have been flecked with small pieces of soil. "They come dirty, so you've already got that out of the way," Crippen said. That's the kind of chic convenience real women can get behind.
Need to know: Do not mess with Eddie Borgo's Spring '14 femme. After showing us his inspiration board, which was collaged with photos of Pussy Riot, Anjelica Huston holding a gun, and Charlotte Rampling in Night Porter, as well as Jane Fonda and Patty Hearst's mug shots and a series of Riot Grrrl-related pictures, it became pretty clear that Borgo's new range was inspired by feminism, women's lib, and old-fashioned girl power. This translated into a militaristic collection filled with wares that scream tough, high-gloss glam. One series, which included a no-nonsense gunmetal ear cuff, a choker, and a massive bracelet, was adorned with druzy-embellished medallions that mimic old war metals. Meanwhile, a DIY-themed necklace—crafted to resemble a grenade pin—transforms into a screwdriver (every girl needs one), and a surprisingly comfortable full-finger ring mimicked the teeth of a zipper. This was a recurring motif—zippers were made into sharp gilded or silver bracelets, and pulls became earrings, or tassels on a punk-tinged cuff.
The designer reimagined his signature chevrons this season, morphing them into razor-sharp fangs on cuffs and earrings—this added to the collection's eff off appeal. Same goes for a giant silver dog tag necklace that can be custom-engraved, and a chained hand piece that could have been plucked right out of a vintage horror film—albeit an haute one.
He says: "I wanted to get back to the roots of who our customer is and to capture the spirit of [the Eddie Borgo] girl. This collection really became about female power. It's important to me that the jewelry makes women feel powerful and beautiful, and that it gives them strength."
Following months of rumors, it was announced this morning that LVMH has acquired a majority stake in London-based footwear label, Nicholas Kirkwood. "It's with a great sense of excitement and pride that I enter into this partnership," offered Kirkwood in a press release. "LVMH is home to the most celebrated and revered brands and talents in our industry, and has an implicit understanding of luxury. From my first meeting with Delphine Arnault and Pierre‐Yves Roussel of LVMH, it was clear that LVMH would be the best partner for our brand as we have the same values of design, creativity, and craftsmanship."
Having launched in 2005, Kirkwood's brand hasn't done too shabbily on its own. The Central Saint Martins-trained designer—known for his playful approach to colorful, sexed-up shoes—has stand alone stores in New York, London, and Las Vegas, is sold at retailers worldwide, won the 2013 BFA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, and launched a men's range earlier this year. Needles to say, with LVMH backing his already flourishing business, further expansion is nigh. Only one question remains: is J.W. Anderson next?
The verdict is in: bralettes, crop tops, and bandeaux—which, having been seen everywhere from Alexander Wang to Fendi, are virtually unwearable for anyone who has breasts or lacks a six-pack—will continue to be a big thing this Spring.
Miuccia Prada, too, got the memo—only, when it arrived, she promptly laughed at it and turned it on its head. The designer’s Spring ‘14 collection, which took to the runway in Milan today, featured irreverent, trompe l’oeil bras that appeared as contrasting insets on high-necked frocks and tops, and as a print on a cheeky orange fur coat. Well played, Mrs. Prada. Well played.
"Art on the wall of children's hospitals? You'd have to be a monster not to support it!" exclaimed ArtBinder founder Alexandra Chemia from the entrance of Lever House last night. She's talking about the work of RxArt, the thirteen-year-old nonprofit that held its packed-to-capacity annual party at the Park Avenue mainstay last night. The event brought in the likes of Nate Lowman, Rob Pruitt, Agnes Gund, André Saraiva, and so many others—all for a little silent (and with help from Simon de Pury, not so silent) bidding, champagne, and mingling to support a cause that, as more than a few attendees were quick to point out, is hard not to rally around. The guest of honor was Kenny Scharf (above), the colorful Pop artist whose video installation project was unveiled on the stairs of the pediatric unit of Brooklyn's Kings County Hospital earlier in the day. "Basically, I feel very honored to make some kind of light in these kids' lives," said Scharf of his involvement. The artist, who's in between "murals and car bombs," also donated a customized work for the evening's live auction. "He'll paint your garage doors, your walls, your facade, your motorbike—whatever you want him to paint…your body, maybe?" mused de Pury before the frantic bidding began. "It's too early to talk, but yeah, we're planning on doing a hospital project," revealed a soft-spoken KAWS. The artist is preparing to show in New York for the first time since 2008 this November. "I met Diane [Brown, founder of RxArt, pictured above] a few years ago, and I'm always happy to be involved with whatever she's up to," he added. Artist Erik Parker concurred, offering, "It's a no-brainer."
