description

Clothing is personal architecture. For this solid collection, Eudon Choi evoked the cartoonishly reductionist Japanese version of brutalism that is Metabolism, referring specifically to the capsules of the Nakagin Tower in Tokyo (I totally had to Google that). You could see where he was coming from in the circular contra-colored panels that peppered the pockets of his jacquard bell-bottoms and bikers. The color-block clash of fuchsia and black in a harmonically proportioned pantsuit spoke to a considered appreciation for aggressive intervention, too.

More broadly, though, this was a fine, tricksy collection rich in pleasing buttresses in which to fly through the day. Choi does good asymmetry, a strong kicky trouser, and a finely judged side split. His collar-up shirts in white and pale blue have become an increasingly strong part of his commercial proposition, along with the understandably popular outerwear pieces. The fabrics were rich and well mustered, unlike some on the first day of the London schedule. Perhaps the strongest criticism to level is that creatively there were no astonishing new propositions here, but that would be harsh. Architecture—whether personal and hewn in fabric, or communal and carved in stone—evolves in infinite increments.