Rita Galkina
IVANA J
Kristin G
Lina S
Weronika Kumanek
Models present creations by YanaStasia during the Russian Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 in Moscow, Russia, Oct. 18, 2010.
Recently, the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region People's Government announced that the regional textile industry next year will give some support on fiscal policy, the details as below:
Since 2011, when the regional textile industry (including cotton textile, wool textile, linen & hemp textile, chemical fiber, and garment enterprises.) obtain loans from financial institutions to implement technological innovation and development of downstream products, the government will arrange no less than 20 million per year to support those enterprises;
At the basis of national transport subsidies for cotton and cotton yarn, for those cotton yarn (32??s or above) made from local cotton and transported out of this autonomous region, the government will give 200 yuan per ton a year as the subsidies for transportation costs out of Xinjiang; for those cotton yarn (below 32??s), the subsidy is 100 yuan per ton;
Textile enterprises within the autonomous region could exempt from part of corporate income tax (the local share of this kind of tax) for five years since 2011; in the period of 2011 and 2015, upon the recognition of major technological upgrading, expand the scale of the production, and/or extension of the downstream industry chain, the enterprises could continue to be exempted from part of enterprise income tax (the local share) for next five years;
To encourage the integration of the textile industry and rational use of resources, the statistics-worthy textile enterprises (whose annul output exceeding five millionyuan) in this Autonomous Region could be exempted from property tax or land tax for five years during the period of 2011-2015.
Since 2011, all textile enterprises belonging to the encouraged category of industries could enjoy the favorable tax rate for western development program, as well as the extra examption of tax for the local share for five years.
Textile enterprise located in difficult areas in the autonomous region and listed in the encouraged category of industries, could enjoy the enterprise income tax of "two years exemption and three years half pay" policy; for the half paid tax, the enterprises could further enjoy exemption of the local share. After the expiration of the term in the policy, enterprises could continue to enjoy exemption of the local share, or the favorable tax rate for western development program;
Restructuring of state-owned textile enterprises could be exempted from sales tax.
This season, Intertextile Directions trend forum (W2) will be under the creative guidance of NellyRodi Agency who will be in charge of the entire trend forum conception from forecasting to on-site design. These cooperations gave rise to four themes:
Northern Shelter Calm serenity and protective cocoons introduce a melancholic atmosphere. Cool colours with a neutralised light effect ranging from fine jerseys and coarse cashmeres to cross-stitch embroideries and windproof nylon materials.
Indulgent Dreams A seductive and multisensory winter that expresses feminine consciousness and nostalgic feelings. Serene and soft colours in nude skin tones and cosmetic pink hues in materials ranging from superfine wools and antique laces to monochromatic brocades and prints with ephemeral motifs.
Layers of Time Recovering traditions as well as exploring the heritage of ancestral memories and passed time glory. Colours modulated by a vintage patina with materials ranging from woollen twills and kempy mohairs to coarse canvas and paisleys on velvets and satins.
Crazy Creations Opulent extravagance expressing personality and uniqueness that dares to be unconventional with fantasy and fun. Vibrant colours in materials ranging from coloured denim and sparkling jersey knits with fake furs to exaggerated graphics and techno lycra.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt HK Ltd, the Sub-council of Textile Industry, CCPIT and the China Textile Information Centre.
The period 2010-2015 will be a crucial time for China and the forming of new "consumption society" from the point view of macro economy.
Under such circumstance, there will be great opportunities on the aspect of clothing consumption in the coming 10-15 years, which will be an era of demands for improvement and sustainable demands, and also the age for the full upgrading of consumption concepts and capability.
According to the figures released by Economic and Trade Commission in Wenzhou city, the city’s exports in industrial sectors grew 26.5% in the first three quarters from a year earlier.
Production in the industries of automobile and motorcycle components and parts, electrical appliances and leather reported the growth of 57.6％, 43.7％and 39.4％ respectively.
At the same time investment in the city’s industry continued to grow and up 33.1% to 20.352 billion yuan. Further more 11.59 billion yuan were invested on renovation of technology for updating the technical and production facilities.
The 19th International Fur Fair in Daying to be run from October 28 to November 1, 2010 was announced on the press conference that took place on Great Hall of People in Beijing on October 15.
Xu Yong, the vice president of China National Council of Light Industry, officials from all level of Hengshui municipal government departments and more than 20 news media organizers presented at the press conference.
Daying is an area known for fur processing since the ancient time, fur processing can trace back to 3,000 years ago, today it has grown to one of important fur production bases in China. More than 15,000 professional buyers for dozens countries and regions is expected to come for the fur trade fair that include South Korea, Japan, Russia, Turkey, Romania and Hong Kong.
Varieties of fur and fur products will be shown on the fur trade fair. The categories of product cover fur clothing, fur scarf, fur plate, handcrafts made from fur, sheared fur products and so on.
Models present creations by Marina Makaron Moscow during the Russian Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 in Moscow, Russia, Oct. 18, 2010.
Yayoi Kusama was a no-show at her own welcome-back party, but that didn't stop A-listers like Sofia Coppola and Diane Kruger or the art world stars Tom Sachs and Kara Walker from raising a glass in the Japanese iconoclast's honor at the opening of her Whitney retrospective last night. The dinner was hosted by W magazine and Louis Vuitton, which is simultaneously launching a collaboration between Kusama and Marc Jacobs. "I've been a fan of hers for years," Dianna Agron told Style.com. "Going against the grain of what you first learned, against your training—it's fantastic."
If New York knows Kusama only for her polka dots and phallic sculptures, the six-decade-spanning exhibition, with its delicate watercolors and detailed collages, seems designed to change that. "I think it will be a great surprise," the Whitney's Adam Weinberg said. "Her range is extraordinary." Vuitton's Yves Carcelle emphasized the artist's perfectionism. Discussing their partnership, he said, "We learned that between a dot and a dot, there are millions of differences."
As for Kusama's absence, the octogenarian artist, who retired to a mental institution in Japan 40 years ago after a 15-year stint in the New York art scene, had a good excuse. She spent the greater part of the day at LV's Fifth Avenue flagship, where her polka-dotted collaboration with Jacobs was unveiled. "Having met Marc changed my visions," she said. "I've had some hard times in my life, but having met him and having done this collaboration makes me feel that life is beautiful."
Kusama has the same kind of effect on others. With a line of people waiting to get in to her Fireflies on the Water installation behind them, more than a few partygoers were reminded of the one-minute rule by a security guard's sharp knock on the door. You can see infinity in there.
cbamd.com contributing editor and party reporter Darrell Hartman circles the city and, occasionally, the globe in the line of duty. In a new column, he reports on the topics—whatever they may be at whatever given moment—that are stirring the social set.
As usual at the most recent Paris Couture collections, there were openings—including a big one for Louis Vuitton’s haute joaillerie store on Place Vendôme. But this time around, there was a major closing, too. As just about everyone knows by now, the Ritz is shutting its doors at the end of July. Not forever, just for two years and change. Of course, to a lot of fashion people, that is forever.
“Everybody’s talking about it,” Claire Courtins-Clarins told me at the Louis Vuitton party. We were, incidentally, at the Ritz; Vuitton had booked the hotel’s pool room for one last go-round. The Atelier Versace show had happened there two nights before—poignantly, considering it was Gianni Versace’s old venue. (That’s Gianni, below, with the usual clatch of supermodels backstage at the Ritz during one of his Couture shows.) Immediately after Donatella’s runway came down, a VIP section went up, for an after-party with a performance by M.I.A.
If the hotel owes its place in the fashion annals to anyone, however, it’s Coco Chanel. The designer lived there from 1934 until 1971, albeit on the less glamorous Rue Cambon side. “Poor Chanel, I use the front door of the Ritz, she must use the back,” Elsa Schiaparelli liked to snipe.
People no longer name-drop the Ritz that confidently. It doesn’t dominate the social scene quite the way it used to, and if it’s true, as someone told me at that Vuitton party, that mice are turning up in guest rooms, then it’s certainly time the place got a refresh.
Still, plenty of fashionistas stay at the Ritz, and they’ll have to find a new home in Paris. What to do? The Crillon is also shuttering for a revamp, and the Bristol may have lost some cachet now that it’s no longer Sarkozy’s lunch joint. Daphne Guinness has reportedly solved the problem by buying an apartment.
Sofia Coppola went that route a while ago. "I remember staying here when I was younger, and it was always exciting with the gold swan faucets and the satin bed covers and stuff, but now I have an apartment [in Paris] and I love to come have lunch or have a drink here," she told me. So did Danielle Steel. As a result, her daughters, the Traina sisters, don’t spend nearly as much time at the Ritz as they did as children.
But they do use the gym. In fact, the Ritz’s health club is what the international jeunesse dorée may miss most about the place. "Best swimming pool in Paris," Vanessa Traina declared at the Vuitton party. "I don’t know where I’ll work out now," Victoria said.
Virginie Courtin-Clarins told me she’d already switched to the Royal Monceau (which, incidentally, has a Clarins spa). “When you want to have a luxurious gym in Paris, you go in the hotels,” she said. "There is no Equinox. There are big chains, but there’s no service." Ritz renovators, take note.
"I like the complexity of Art Nouveau, the torture," Gaia Repossi said last night. The jewelry designer was hosting a dinner in the most exquisite of torture chambers, a room at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs encased in intricate turn-of-the-century boiserie and full of Art Nouveau porcelain. Joining the historic objets were a pair of newer ones, the chain-gang-inspired silver cuff and necklace Repossi recently created with input from her label's stylist, Vanessa Traina. The two of them shared a center table with, among others, Shala Monroque and Haider Ackermann, who gleefully made off with one of the cuffs. "He has a shoot, he said, so he wants to play the muse," Repossi explained.
Following a deliberately paced Japanese dinner, many of Repossi and Traina's guests—including Aaron Young and Laure Heriard Dubreuil—ended up at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, in the eighth arrondissement, where Valentino's Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli were hosting a bash of their own to celebrate that day's Couture show. Umbrella-toting doormen escorted revelers inside the mansion, where Champagne and platters of strawberries awaited. Few present were in a more festive mood than the label's PR and party mastermind, Carlos de Souza. Not only had the collection—"the incredible artistry of the little hands of those Roman ladies who've been working more than 45 years with Valentino"—impressed him, but his sons, Sean and Anthony, were at the decks. (The Brazilian duo has been making the global rounds since January, when Madonna heard them at Valentino Garavani's Gstaad chalet and subsequently tapped them to deejay the premiere party for W.E.) On the bookings front, Dad's connections couldn't have hurt. In terms of performance, de Souza insisted, his influence has been minimal. "I teach them how to dance," he said. "But on music, no—not at all."
